‘I try to sleep as much as possible,’ says Petri Kokkonen. ‘That’s our secret in winter.’
The 32-year-old lives in the region of Vätsäri in Finnish Lapland, deep in the Arctic Circle.
While Vätsäri boasts incredible wildlife including reindeer and bears, and the Northern Lights dance in the sky almost every night, this time of year also comes with its challenges.
From October onwards, the region is completely covered in snow, the temperature can stay at -20C for days and, during the depths of winter, the sun doesn’t rise – at all.
At the end of November, Vätsäri is plunged into 24/7 darkness. The sun won’t make an appearance again until January 14, when it will rise for all of about 18 minutes.
For some, the idea of living without a single ray of sunshine is unbearable – but Petri actually chose to trade in city life, in Lapland’s capital, Rovaniemi, to move here.
Having always been fascinated by the forests and lakes of Lapland, he quit his job and decided to pursue a career as a wilderness guide.
He now lives in a log house with his dogs, Elli and Elsa. He has no electricity, gets water from the lake, and hunts his own food. The nearest village, Nellim, is 14 miles away by snowmobile.
It would be a tough way of life for anyone, and as we head into the Polar Night, you’d think it’d be about to get all the more difficult – but Petri doesn’t agree.
‘It’s so beautiful this time of year,’ he says. ‘The frosty mornings and silence of the wilderness, hunting trips with my dogs, the Northern Lights and the millions of stars you can see are just some of the best parts of this time of year.
‘As the temperatures continue to drop, you can really feel and tell when winter is on its way. The -20C nights are the best – you can actually hear Lake Inari freeze over.’
When Petri told his family he was ditching the rat race for Lapland, they were supportive – with Petri saying his love for nature is a family trait.
‘It comes from my father and grandfather,’ he says. ‘When I told my dad, he said that if he was still young and his situation was different, he would do the same.
‘He told me that I was living his dream.’
But the constant darkness and freezing temperature have to be prepared for.
‘I have quite a few things I have to take care of,’ Petri says. ‘Before the ground begins to freeze, I have to harvest the potatoes and onions I grow and also prepare firewood.
‘My boat also has to be lifted out of the water before it freezes – and of course I have to put the garden furniture into storage!
‘And to ensure the water in my kitchen and sauna doesn’t freeze, I have to heat the rooms every morning with the fireplaces.
‘I especially have to pay attention to clothes – make sure I wear enough layers, always take extra clothes, and have dry clothes with me.’
Given Petri lives without electricity, he has to be careful. His energy source of choice, solar panels, come with some obvious difficulties. They energy during February to October – which is then banked for the winter. But, he has to be frugal.
‘I just have USB appliances, a few lights, an inverter for the computer, and a few other larger devices. My refrigerator is also solar powered.
‘I use the phone for basic things such as keeping in touch with friends and family, work, and checking the weather forecast, but the most important thing is security.
‘I save the phone battery as much as possible so that in case something happens, I know that I will be able to call for help.’
Due to the lack of daylight, Petri says the biggest change in his routine comes in the form of sleep (yes, he does have curtains – no, he doesn’t use them in winter).
‘The body can tell when the seasons are changing,’ he says. ‘Those first darker nights, I can tell I need more sleep than in the summer months.
‘It can be difficult to really wake up in the morning. The body feels heavier and a bit frozen.
‘And I begin to get tired earlier in the evening once the days start to get shorter. There are days when I feel like I could sleep from 4pm.’
It’s a phenomenon referred to as ‘Polar Night Fatigue’, and is often experienced by those living within the Arctic Circle.
Some residents choose to use UV lights or supplements to combat the fatigue, but Petri staves off the tiredness by being in nature.
‘I spend my days outside and then during the evening, in my sauna,’ he says.
He also adds that people power through by working during the winter months. After all, Christmas is big business in Lapland.
‘Here in Lapland, many people work in tourism during the winter months and hide their winter fatigue by working.
‘You can make a year’s salary during the winter season from December through to February.’
He also adds that the midnight sun (when the sun never sets) experienced from mid-May to the end of July sees him through the dark days. ‘You would be surprised how much strength a night-less summer gives you!’ says Petri. ‘I find the energy lasts all the way to December.’
Petri says that the community makes an effort to come together during the Polar Night.
‘People are looking for good conversation and to connect,’ says Petri. ‘It’s a time to catch up and share what’s happened over the year. It sounds strange but it’s the way for many.
‘It’s nice to see old friends and reminisce, it always creates a good mood.
He says the winter brings out what he calls ‘Lappish cooperation’. ‘Winter makes our day to day slightly more difficult and many people come together simply to just ask for help,’ he says. ‘If your snowmobile runs out of power, you know right away that you have friends everywhere who are ready to help. It’s quite normal and standard.’
While the darkness is known to bring about a low mood and feelings of negativity, Petri combats that by adjusting his mindset.
‘I just do things that keep my mind fresh, make me feel positive vibes, and put me in a good mood.
‘In minimal daylight, I focus on pleasant things and avoid discomfort. For example, if you’re having a day off and you’re feeling a bit tired, you shouldn’t over exert yourself – just do exactly what you need to stay calm and relaxed.’
But, despite all the positives, does he look forward to the summer months?
‘As spring approaches, I do feel more energised and refreshed when I wake up,’ he admits. ‘When the sun begins to reappear in January, it does somehow bring more happiness and strength.’
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